Goa Church Legacy

Goa Churches attract tourists but have lost some of their old glory!

Goa as we know has a history of Portuguese rule and the churches that imbue the city are a reflection of a time gone by. The Portuguese were in Goa for about 450 years right up to 1961 and the influence is so visible through not just the food and culture but the eye-catching, high standing churches and the freshly whitewashed looking sign of cross that one often sights along the way, especially in the interiors.

Ofcourse the Basilica of Bom Jesus in distinct Renaissance baroque architecture is the most revered and recognised by UNESCO that accorded it the status of a World Heritage Site. It has the embalmed mortal remains of St Francis Xavier and also houses beautiful art works of Biblical times. While it has become a major tourist attraction over the years it no more holds a Portuguese service.

Majority churches in Goa now have Konkani as the main language in their service apart from English. However the imposing Church ‘Our lady of immaculate conception’ in Panjim still has a Portuguese service and to maintain the sanctity of the church they have had to close its gates to tourists who would otherwise disturb a service in progress.

Church of Immaculate Conception holds a Portuguese service

Ninoschka Pinto, an original resident of Altinho, Panjim says, “Portuguese service now one would mainly find in Panjim or Margao. Infact there was a time when you’d even find a Latin service right until my younger days but now that has faded out completely.” Ninoschka and her husband both are fluent in Portuguese language.

Goa churches are divided into different zones and Ninoschka belongs to the Salesian order and teaches at their Portuguese medium school.

Otherwise the common denomination between all the old churches is that they are all Roman Catholic. The British referred to the Goan Christians as ‘Portuguese Christians’. There were some who by marriage became Roman Catholics before the active conversion drive. While the British were averse to marrying locals, the Portuguese willingly married the locals.

Majority Goan Christians left for better opportunities to Europe during the time of liberation in 1961 as they held Portuguese citizenship. The government did not seem to really integrate them, because they just levied heavier taxes post liberation and forced them to shift out to other cities such as Bombay or then to Europe or even Karachi in Pakistan. Those who kept their ancestral land also had a higher tax to deal with.

According to Dr Luis Dias, a local historian and columnist, “There has been a continuous emigration which is why the community has gone from being in majority to now barely 10 percent of the population in the state. A lot of present time migration is taking place due to a feeling of disillusionment and the need to preserve one’s identity”.

The British also employed the Goan Portuguese in administrative roles after they discovered their skills in their short time in Goa from 1799-1813. In the course of time, many Goans left as they were employed by them in different parts of the world.

Dr Gustavo Pinto, a well-known veterinarian doctor in Goa, returned only in the 1970s or was born and brought up in Africa where his ancestors went with the British on work. The family has their own ancestral chapel but because of modern day living they visit a nearby chapel now due to proximity.

The common sight of a white cross structure along the roads as you navigate some parts of Goa, make you wonder if this is typical of only the Goan Catholics. Dr Luis, throws light, “Yes traditionally it was symbolic of the Station of the cross, or to bless people travelling or to keep the faith of those around who sometimes light a candle and say a prayer.” Some of these holy sites come with a placard that says ‘Povitra kuris’ which can be translated as Holy Cross, these simple reminders of Gods goodness, is one reflection of the simple way of life followed by the locals and respected by even those from other faiths.

The unfortunate news is that these old traditions are soon fading. Dr Luis says, “With the remaining Goan Christians migrating, the congregations are breaking up and there is a bit of a struggle to even keep a sense of community going. In the face of an influx and the politics of the day, the unity and character of the place is under threat.”

The reality is that the imposing structures are the only vestiges we have in time to come as the original handful patrons fade into the shadow of the new order.