VIVA VALENCIA!

Viva Valencia!

The bright azure skies, dreamy beaches, calmingly pleasant weather with an occasional breeze and the sight of a white stork making its way across the horizon, a buzz from the easy going cafeterias and tabernacles that dot almost every street, Spain is an experience to soak in, relish and Relive!

I was fortunate to have a local experience as my very gracious friend Paula offered to play host and show me her hometown Valencia. While the city wouldn’t have otherwise been on my travel agenda, for the simple reason it doesn’t strike a bell as much as the other tourist hotspots, she managed to prevail upon me. All I can say, looking back or while I still reel from its after effect as I go looking for rosquilletas (to call them bread sticks would be an insult), and a cocktail of fresh orange juice, sparkling wine and a dash of vodka /Agua de Valencia and carry a tan from the many beaches visited, is that it was everything she said and much more.

 A perfect blend of a self contained city and a traditional town, where you’d see youngsters picnicking in the parks with tinto de verano (red wine cum sweet soda sold everywhere!) their laughter following you a mile long, along with nattily dressed professionals beating a path on the squeaky clean sidewalks when not cruising in their Audis to work. Where Almuerzo or mid morning break at 10:30am has cafes filled with the elderly sipping on their carajillo (espresso with whiskey) lazily, catching up on the world. Just as you hear the clip-clop of hooves to look back at the most sturdy looking, well groomed noble Spanish horses, pulling along a carriage drawn by a “conductor” in a cowboy hat.

The avenue which houses Zara, Mango, Bershka and the likes also gives a peak into old quaint shops selling knick knacks such as lace and broaches, in Calle Colon. We were lucky to attend an annual fair where all the high street brands here go on a night long sale, opening their doors to whoever be, with a corner of tapas and local sparkling wine, on the house. The naturally cheery spirit spilled onto the traffic free street with live music performance and clowns on stilts. We finally wound up at the adjacent Mercados de Colon from where we could still enjoy the music while we sank into out Jamon and tuna bocadillos or sandwiches that came with fresh olives.

The city during day regales with its roman past, after all, this third largest city of Spain was founded as a Roman colony in 138 BC. Its historic centre is one of the largest in Spain, replete with heritage of ancient monuments and squares as old as the city. At the centre is a majestic fountain with the sculpture of the water god Neptune surrounded by eight nymphs. Created by local sculptor Silvestre Edeta, this work of art is a representation of Valencia’s Turia river and its eight irrigation ditches. This is also where we sat to have our lunch from the “menu de mediodia” at an open air eatery facing the fountain. Be forewarned a “Pasta Fresca” by itself means pasta with tomato sauce, after all the state is famed for producing some of the best tomatoes in the world. The meal combos are most common at lunch hour and ours included a gazpacho, pasta fresco and shrimp salad. Of course we followed it up with a café cortado (espresso cut with some steamed milk).

A popular place for the tourists, mostly from other parts of Europe, is the Plaça de la Mare de Déu. Around here is where I got to see the old market of silk exchange from the 15^th century with its imposing columns and court yard full of orange trees.  The main attraction, Basílica de la Virgen de los Desamparados, dedicated to the patron of the city sees many visitors on a daily basis, however we decided to go to a lesser known church, Church of San Nicholas in one of the alleys with a non descript entrance opening up to the most breath taking hand painted ceilings, reminding one of the Sistine chapel. Valencia is full of interesting churches with a history to tell.

 You envy the residents as apart from their own post card perfect sea shore, there are numerous other beach getaways just a short drive away. So it is not surprising to see families or youngsters pack their swim wear, some good wine and take off with pulsating Latin music on holidays. In fact in the company I was, they always had their swim wear on, in anticipation of some beach time.

I have to admit the beaches were some of the best I had ever seen. Las Palmeras is a private beach where the retired own or rent a holiday home, some of them, from Madrid who miss the sea. It is the epitome of peace and the old Mediterranean houses in shades of lime, blue and white, look most charming. For those craving a little more action, there is El Cabanyal, the fisherman’s village, where I got to try the famous Horchata, a refreshing drink made of a local seed, also referred to as tiger’s drink and had with a freshly baked farton (sweet bread pastry).

 La cullera and Sueca/El Perello just a short distance away are relatively sleepier towns awash with nature’s bounty and strikingly beautiful beaches where I actually swam for the first time with the water mostly calm. El Perello is the home to the best tomatoes in the world and a trip to the farms make you appreciate the high quality fresh produce, the first batch of which is auctioned every year.

Gandia, a port town, further away is like no other as you’ll encounter boisterous bunches of girls or guys accompanied by a band and in fancy dress, clearly standing out as they pass by blowing kisses. They are here for their bachelorette bash. The town is known as a bachelorette destination with its bustling night scene and reasonable rooms on rent with the sea in full view. This is where I had the authentic Paella. Valencia is where it originated and contrary to popular belief it is not made of sea food but instead rabbit and chicken. A lot of people still contend that it is the most flavoursome paella. The sea food version was an upshot of the original. I downed it with some clara, which is fresh beer with lemon soda (yes they like their drinks sweet) best had as an accompaniment for lunch when you’d like to keep it light yet enjoy the buzz.

My last night was spent in Valencia’s latest addition- “Marina Beach Club Valencia” right on the sea front with a hipster feel that transported me straight to the MTV grind setting. Opened just a few weeks back, this new go-to joint pushes the bar higher as it draws luxury yacht owners, boasts of male models as waiters (yes for once turning the tables around), sink in couches and floats as you chill with your gin and tonic in your bath slippers if you like or wearing just about anything and blend with the house music.

As the evening sun rays deflected from the aviators, adding sparkle to the cocktails and shimmer to the sand beneath, this playful retreat made everything seem alive.

I don’t see any reason why Valencia should not be on your itinerary if you are headed to Spain. I for one can’t wait to return.